Winter Storage for Boards, Wetsuits and Water Toys

The end of the season is when gear either gets set up for another great year or quietly falls apart in the garage. Salt crystals keep working on zippers all winter. A damp wetsuit mildews in its bag. A paddleboard leaned on its nose develops a ding. An inflatable gets chewed by a mouse that liked the warm, rolled-up nest. One careful afternoon of prep prevents nearly all of it. This guide covers how to store boards, kayaks, inflatables, wetsuits, life jackets and small gear for the off-season, plus what to check when spring comes around.

Step one for everything: clean, dry, inspect

Before any piece of gear goes into storage, run the same three steps:

1. Clean. Rinse everything with fresh water to remove salt, sand, sunscreen and grime. REI recommends washing boats with mild soap and water and avoiding solvents and harsh chemicals. Pay extra attention to moving parts: rudder cables, footbraces, pedal drives, zippers and valves.
2. Dry completely. Dry inside and out, including hatches, foam pads, neoprene and the inside of rolled inflatables. Trapped moisture causes mildew and smells, and in a cold garage it can freeze.
3. Inspect and note repairs. Look for scratches deep enough to need filling, delaminating pads, frayed straps, cracked buckles, leaking valves and corroded hardware. Fix things now or write them down. Winter is the best time for repairs, not the week of your first trip.

Hard paddleboards and kayaks

Indoors is best, whether that's a garage, a shed or a spare room. REI says outdoor storage can work if the boat is shaded and sheltered, such as under a deck or eaves, or beneath a tarp, and if rain and snow can't collect on or in it. The two biggest risks over a long storage period are deformation and UV.

Gear	Best orientation	Support	Avoid
Kayak (plastic or composite)	On its side or hull-up on a rack; hull toward the ceiling if hanging	Padded cradles or wide straps about one-third of the way in from each end	Sitting on the floor for months; hanging by grab loops; tight straps
Hard SUP	On a wall rack, deck against the rack; or hull-up if hanging	Padding or wide webbing spread along the length	Standing it on its nose; tight straps; direct sun
Surfboard / bodyboard	In a board bag, on its rail or flat on padded racks	Padded rack arms	Hot attics, car trunks, direct sun
Canoe	Hull-up on a rack or hanging hull-up	Padded supports spread along the gunwales	Resting on the ground

A few rules from REI's storage guides:

• Don't leave a boat directly on the ground for long periods. It can deform the hull and expose it to moisture.
• Never hang a kayak by its grab loops. Use wide straps around the body.
• Don't strap boats down tightly the way you would on a car. Long-term strap pressure can deform the hull.
• Leaning a SUP? Stand it on its side or tail, never its nose. Pad the floor and secure it so it can't fall.
• Using a tarp outside? Suspend it above the boat rather than wrapping it. Contact with the hull can promote mold in wet conditions, and a sagging tarp can deform the hull.
• Consider a UV-protectant spray on hard-shell boats, especially if they'll be anywhere near a window.

Strip off seats, paddles, spray skirts, float bags and pumps. Rinse and dry them, and store them indoors. Remove fins from SUPs and surfboards, and keep fin screws and keys in a labeled bag.

Inflatable SUPs, kayaks and towables

Inflatables are easy to store, which is exactly why they get stored badly. REI's guidance for inflatable SUPs:

• If you have room, store it partially inflated, around 5 psi, like a hard board. That avoids permanent creases.
• If space is tight, deflate it fully, leave the valve open, and make sure it's clean and completely dry. Roll it loosely rather than cranking it tight, and keep it somewhere cool and dry, ideally indoors.
• Inflatable and folding kayaks follow the same rule: loosely rolled or folded, cool and dry.

Towable tubes, float mats and loungers get the same treatment. Wash off sunscreen and lake scum, dry them thoroughly (inside the cover too, for covered tubes), deflate them and fold loosely. Store tow ropes clean, dry and loosely coiled, and check them for fraying and sun fading. Sun-faded webbing and rope are signs of UV wear, so replace them if in doubt. Our guide to choosing a towable tube covers rope ratings for replacement.

For PSI, patching and seam care, see our full inflatable SUP care guide.

Wetsuits, rash guards and booties

Neoprene's enemies are sun, heat, salt and being stored wet. O'Neill's care guidance: flush the suit with fresh water after every use and wash it with wetsuit shampoo every 3–5 uses. Hang it to dry out of direct sunlight, and never store it wet or in direct sun. Patagonia adds: hang-dry inside out, hand wash with mild non-detergent soap, never use a washing machine, dryer, dry cleaner or bleach, and avoid folding, since folds cause creases.

For winter storage:

• Give it a proper shampoo wash before storage, then dry it fully: inside out first, then right side out.
• Hang it on a wide, padded wetsuit hanger, draped over at the waist (O'Neill suggests folding at the waist to hang) rather than by the shoulders, which stretches neoprene over a long period.
• Keep it in a cool, dark closet, not a hot attic or a sunny garage wall.
• Lubricate zippers with a zipper wax or lubricant. O'Neill recommends oiling zippers every few months.
• Booties and gloves: rinse, dry inside and out, and store loosely, not crushed in the bottom of a bin.
• Rash guards and UPF shirts: wash, dry fully and store folded away from light. See our UPF guide for when to replace them.

Planning to buy a new suit for spring? Our guides to wetsuit fit and care and wetsuit thickness by water temperature will help.

Life jackets

A life jacket that's been stored badly can quietly lose the one thing it exists for: buoyancy. BoatUS Foundation guidance:

• Air-dry thoroughly before storage. Never use a dryer, radiator or other direct heat source, which can destroy a foam jacket's buoyancy.
• Store in a well-ventilated spot, not a sealed damp locker.
• Inspect each jacket for rips, mildew, leaks, hardened or lumpy foam, and oil-soaked fabric. Check that straps and hardware work and that the USCG approval label is attached and readable. Replace any jacket that shows deterioration.
• Don't use life jackets as kneeling pads or fenders, and don't clean them with harsh detergents or gasoline.

For inflatable life jackets, BoatUS recommends checking that the CO2 cylinder is properly installed and the mechanism works, and immediately replacing spent cartridges. It also recommends a leak test every two months: inflate it orally, leave it overnight, and replace it if it loses air. Do one before storage and one in spring. Our life jacket guide covers sizing kids who will have grown over the winter.

Electronics, batteries and small gear

• Batteries: Remove batteries from lights, headlamps and electronics so they can't leak. For fish finder and trolling batteries, follow the manufacturer's storage instructions, charge them before storage and top them up during the winter. Store them somewhere that stays within the maker's temperature range.
• Fish finders and mounts: Remove head units and store them indoors. Cap or bag connectors so they stay clean. Our fish finder guide has setup tips for spring.
• Masks, snorkels and fins: Rinse, dry, and store out of sunlight in a box or bag so the silicone doesn't get crushed or yellow.
• Dry bags and waterproof cases: Wash, dry inside and out, and store unrolled or open so seals and coatings don't stick.
• Pumps: Check hoses, valves and gauges. Store them with the iSUP so nothing goes missing.

Quick storage checklist

Item	Before storage	How to store	Spring check
Hard SUP / kayak	Rinse, wash, dry, remove fins and accessories	Indoors, on side or hull-up, padded supports, no tight straps	Dings, fittings, deck pad
Inflatable SUP / kayak	Wash, dry completely	Partly inflated (~5 psi) or loosely rolled, valve open, cool and dry	Inflate and leave overnight to check for leaks
Towables and floats	Wash, dry, deflate	Loosely folded in a sealed tote	Seams, valves, handles, tow points
Tow ropes	Rinse, dry	Loosely coiled, out of sun	Fraying, fading, knots
Wetsuits	Shampoo, dry inside out	Wide hanger, folded at the waist, dark closet	Seams, zipper, fit
Life jackets	Air-dry; inspect; leak-test inflatables	Well-ventilated, no direct heat	Fit (kids), label, straps, CO2 cylinder
Batteries	Charge per manufacturer	Within rated temperature range	Charge and test

When spring comes, run our water safety checklist before the first launch.

FAQ

Can I store my kayak outside over winter?

Yes, if it's shaded and sheltered, off the ground, on its side or hull-up, and covered with a tarp suspended above it rather than wrapped around it. Indoors is still best.

Should I store my inflatable SUP inflated or deflated?

Either works. REI suggests storing it partially inflated (about 5 psi) if you have space, to avoid creases. Otherwise deflate it fully, leave the valve open, and roll it loosely in a cool, dry place.

How should I hang a wetsuit for storage?

Once fully dry, hang it on a wide hanger draped at the waist, out of direct sun, in a cool closet. Avoid tight folds and never store it wet.

When should I replace a life jacket?

Judge it by condition. Replace any jacket with tears, mildew, hardened or lumpy foam, or a missing or unreadable label. Inflatables need regular leak tests and cylinder checks.

Is it OK to stand a paddleboard on end?

On its side or its tail, with padding underneath and a strap to stop it falling. Never stand it on its nose.

Sources

• REI Expert Advice — How to Store a Kayak
• REI Expert Advice — How to Store a Stand Up Paddle Board
• O'Neill Support — What is the best method to care for my wetsuit?
• Patagonia — Wetsuit Care (PDF)
• BoatUS Foundation — Life Jacket Care